brief overview
AI Overview Sens, France, has a Gothic splendor and historical significance that extends beyond Paris. Built in the early 12th century, the Cathedral of Sens is a typical example of early Gothic architecture. The city has artifacts related to Thomas Becket and a recently reopened museum.
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look summary
Most travelers to France never look outside of Paris. That’s wrong.
Sens is a city of approximately 27,000 souls located approximately 130 miles from Charles de Gaulle Airport and was once a major center of power and religious authority. Its past is evident in its cathedral, one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture.
The Cathedral of Sens, officially known as the Basilica of St. Stephen, dates back to the early 12th century. At the time, builders were beginning to move beyond the heavy, limited light of Romanesque architecture. The pointed arches of the then new Gothic style were more than just decoration. It was an engineering solution that changed the way large churches and cathedrals were built.
What makes the cathedral particularly attractive is not only its architectural significance, but also its current situation. The French Revolution was disastrous for many churches, and their interiors were stripped and reused. The Sens were spared the worst of this destruction.
Survivals include four 12th-century stained glass windows, an 18th-century choir screen, and the imposing marble mausoleum of Louis, Dauphin of France. Louis was the son of Louis XV and the father of three future kings: Louis XVI, Louis XVIII, and Charles X. The Dauphin died before ascending the throne.
The importance of Sens Cathedral extends beyond its architecture and royal history. The church has a notable place in Christian history through its association with the martyred Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Becket, whose conflict with Henry II ended with his assassination in 1170 and his canonization shortly thereafter. During his exile from England, Beckett found refuge in Sens.
Relics related to Becket can be seen in the recently reopened Sens Museum in the former archbishop’s palace. Among the exhibits is an almost complete set of liturgical costumes associated with him.
The museum also preserves other artifacts testifying to the city’s former prominence in medieval religious life, such as fragments traditionally identified as belonging to the True Cross and the Crown of Thorns. In the Middle Ages, such objects were not curiosities but centers of worship that drew pilgrims from far and wide.
Beyond the cathedral, Sense reveals a different, but equally informative history.
The historic city center, once surrounded by city walls, still has a significant number of half-timbered houses. The exposed beams and irregular façade testify to centuries of gradual change rather than major reconstruction. The buildings are in daily use, giving this center a unique atmosphere of life, rather than being an area frequented only by tourists.
The Sens also benefit from geography.
For those interested in all things wine, it’s the perfect base from which to explore three of France’s top wine appellations. Chablis is less than an hour away. To the west is Sancerre. The Champagne region can also be comfortably reached within a day’s drive.
Wine production has been practiced around Sens since ancient times, but it became extinct in the late 19th century due to the phylloxera parasite that devastated vineyards. That history is now being reconsidered at Domaine des Senons. This family-run winery has single-handedly revived local viticulture here on the edge of Burgundy.
What Sens lacks in scale, it makes up for in what it can offer its visitors. Those who have made the effort to come here will be pleasantly surprised.
If you go
You need a car to get here. I flew into Charles de Gaulle and picked up my rental at Enterprise, one of several agencies at the airport. The process is simple and no different from the experience of renting a car at the airport after returning home. Be sure to reserve a car with built-in GPS or bring a smartphone with a mapping application.
A short drive from Sens is Villeneuve-sur-Yonne. The town has two monumental medieval gates that are still used for traffic in and out of the centre. The parish church, the Church of the Assumption, has an impressive Renaissance façade. Inside is a sculpture of the Burial of Christ, attributed to the sculptor Jean Goujon.
Further afield, about 110 miles away, is the small village of Vezelay. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of France’s great Romanesque churches and has served for centuries as a major pilgrimage site and starting point for the Way of St. James. It was also the scene of major historical events. In 1146, the Abbot of Clairvaux (later Saint Bernard) preached during the Second Crusade. A sermon by Becket in 1166. Then, in 1190, King Richard the Lionheart and King Philip II of France set out on the Third Crusade. Relics related to Mary Magdalene are preserved in ancient crypts.
The Cathedral of Sens, Our Lady of the Assumption in Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, and the Cathedral of Vezelay are open daily with free admission. Access may be restricted due to religious observances, but it is usually safe to go inside. Admission to the Sense Museum is also free.
We stayed at the Epona Hotel, a relatively new 4 star hotel in the center of Sens. The rooms are comfortable and well equipped. The hotel has convenient on-site parking, a valuable facility in the historic city centre.
The Sens Tourism Office website has a wealth of planning resources available in English. You can also book guided tours through the office.
Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post
Dennis Lennox writes about travel, politics, and religious issues. He has been published in publications such as the Financial Times, Independent, Detroit News, and Toronto Sun. Follow @dennislennox on Twitter.
